Friday 9 April 2021

Friday Five: Food and Drink in the Blue Mountains


1. It should be no surprise to anyone that we couldn't visit the Blue Mountains without dropping by the brewery there. DJ and Harriet McCready have opened Mountain Culture in a former newspaper office in Katoomba. The architecture is apparently 'inter-war free classical', with high ceilings, open beams, secret staircases, rooms of various sizes and an outdoor are to catch the mountain sun. But it's the beer we're here for, and it is definitely very fine. 

I particularly enjoyed the Status Quo New England Pale Ale (very hoppy, bitter and tropical with 'massive late and dry hop additions'), the VHS & Chill Retro IPA (orange rind, fresh grapefruit and dank pine), the Double Red IPA (the Holy Grail of beer), and the Big Richard Imperial Stout (big, boozy dark dried fruit and chocolate).

Big Richard Imperial Stout at Mountain Culture

2. Also new to us is Cafe 92 at the Conservation Hut. We had planned to do the National Pass Walk, but sections of the route are closed due to rockfalls and other hazards. Instead we did the Undercliff Overcliff Walk (yes, the wombling free song was sung), and found this cafe at the top of the aforementioned cliffs. The meals looked excellent, but we had eaten a hearty breakfast, unaware that we might encounter such a delight, so we made do with coffee and cake, and spectacular views from the verandah. The artwork inside is also very impressive - it is by Reinis Zusters, a Latvian-born artist who had a studio at nearby Wentworth Falls until his death in 1999.


3. The Carrington is one of our favourite places in The Blue Mountains and we always visit whenever we are here, although attempts to book accommodation have been unsuccessful as it is always so popular! We have been to a wine festival in the dining room; we have sat in the lounge on a rainy day and taken tea and scones when my parents came to visit; we have drunk full-bodied red wine while sitting in armchairs by the fire as it poured with rain outside; we have hung out in the bar with a couple of beers... 

This time we sat out on the verandah and enjoyed a cocktail in the late afternoon sun. I had a St Germain (elderflower liqueur; gin; prosecco over crushed ice served with a slice of bitter lemon and a maraschino cherry). It was very tasty and refreshing after a long day of walking.


4. For dinner one evening we walked to Arjuna, an Indian restaurant on the outskirts of Katoomba. It doesn't look too salubrious from the exterior - although the adjacent water tower is painted with a rather attractive shark motif. 


It was Easter weekend and very busy; diners were booked into two sittings to keep the chef from getting two overwhelmed. We attended the earlier sitting, which means we caught the most amazing sunset views from the verandah. 


We weren't aware that the venue wasn't licensed so we hadn't brought a drink with us, although we spotted almost very other group arriving clutching bottles of wine - that's a top tip to remember for next time. The food was fabulous, though so I didn't feel as though we were lacking in anything. I had a Chicken Xacuti (Goan style chicken cooked with roasted coconut), which was melt in the mouth chunks of chicken in a rich and creamy sauce, while Him Outdoors went for Balti Gosht, which was served in one of those Balti buckets of spicy tomato and onion sauce. It was delicious, and we needed the walk of several kilometres back to our lodgings to work off some of the calories!


5. We were struggling to get a booking for dinner, because we had not been organised and had left everything too late, but we managed to book in to Avalon for Sunday lunch, and what a wonderful spot that was. The blurb on the website reads, 'set in the dress circle od the historic Savoy picture theatre, Avalon Restaurant and cocktail Bar at Katoomba combines playful art-deco charm with hearty food, friendly service and specular Blue Mountains views'. All of this is true.

The entrance leads us through the foyer of the 1930s cinema, past the ticket booth and up the stairs. It's all leadlight glass, geometric influences, upside down lampshades, kooky prints and vibrant colours. We began with cocktails, as it seemed wrong not to - he had a rhubarb and ginger martini and I had an 'Avalon', which was similar to the drink I had the other night featuring gin, elderflower liqueur, limoncello, Aperol, cranberry, peach bitters and mint. These were fabulous and a great start to the meal. 


For starters I had paprika prawns and tumeric scallops, served on pineapple and peach salsa, with caviar dip. The shellfish were melting with fishy goodness, and the salsa was popping with colour and flavour. I also inveigled a bite of the starter that Him Outdoors chose which was as delicious as it looked. He had grilled figs stuffed with blue cheese topped with a walnut and parmesan crust and wrapped in crispy prosciutto. This was rich and fruity with a bite from the blue cheese and savoury hints from the prosciutto - it was a perfect blend of texture as well. 


The quality of the starters set us up with high expectations for our mains, which were expertly met. Him Outdoors had the seared duck breast with carrot and ginger puree and orange liqueur reduction, served with rosemary potatoes and seasonal vegetables. I think he chose it partly because he loves duck - it's his go-to dish at a restaurant - but mainly because the description didn't mention 'jus' (a word he just despises for some reason; "why can't they just call it gravy?").  The waitress told him that it would be served pink and was he okay with this? He was, but I also like the way they explain this, not as an option, but as a directive - you don't have to have it if you don't like it!


It's Easter Sunday so I couldn't go past the lamb, and I do feel as though I have may have slightly won in the plate envy stakes. I had slow-roasted lamb wrapped in bacon, garlic, thyme, with a red wine and lime glaze, served with creamy mash and seasonal vegetables. The lamb was so tender and juicy; it practically fell apart and the comfort of the fat in the meat was well-matched with the crispness of the mangetout peas and the zing of the glaze. 


We accompanied the meal with a bottle of Robert Stein Shiraz Viognier (from Mudgee), which we lingered over at the end of the meal, unable to fit in any dessert. I was trying to think of an elegant word to tell the waitress I had had sufficient to eat, she supplied 'stonkered', which made me laugh as it is indeed a great word, but not particularly sophisticated. She also told us that the restaurant has been going for thirty years, and that last night (Easter Saturday) was their busiest night ever - people are obviously desperate to go on holiday and, as they can't currently go overseas, they are flocking to their own back yard. 

I also note that their menu says, 'along with our daily specials of new dishes to try, our main menu is well established, and so loved by our guests that we've hardly changed it in thirty years... we wouldn't dare!' It's good to know it should still be there serving fine fayre when we return.