Friday Five: Barossa Wineries

Our trip to Adelaide was mainly for the cycling, but obviously, one can't pass through the Barossa region without stopping at a winery or two. Or a dozen. So we did, and here are some of them.

Bethany Wines cellar door

5 Wineries We Visited on Our Barossa Trip:

1. Peter Lehmann - set among fabulous gardens and cultivated lawns, this was a wonderful place to start (and handily just round the corner from our accommodation). In 1979 there was a grape glut and the growers couldn't sell their grapes, so Peter Lehmann set up saying, 'Give me your grapes, and I'll make your wine'. Of course the growers had to trust him and wait for at least three years before they saw a return - it seems to have been successful! We drank many different shirazes, ranging in price from $20 to $100. Top Drop: 2010 Stonewell Shiraz; a classic example of the rich concentrated old vine style, packed with flavours of dark fruits and chocolate, with a touch of aniseed.
2. Wolf Blass - Him Outdoors had a particular inclination to see this winery. It was one of the first in the region, and although it's big and somewhat corporate, it didn't disappoint. We were served by Jenny who did an excellent job, explaining all the different labels to us (red; yellow; silver; gold; white; grey; brown; sapphire; black; platinum) and talking us through the range. Founder Wolfgang Blass believes that the winemakers of the Barossa should really just stick to shiraz, and, on the evidence of this tasting, they could do worse than heed his advice. Top Drop: 2012 Brown Label Classic Shiraz; an intriguing blend of the same grape from three different regions - Barossa; McLaren Vale; Langhorn Creek - produces a soft and approachable wine that is still robust and richly flavoured. The brown label was not a successful marketing colour, but was reinstated for the year of Wolfgang's 80th birthday with much greater success.
3. Bethany Wines - Bethany itself is a beautiful little spot steeped in German history; the village was settled in 1842 by 28 families who emigrated from Prussia. The Schrapel family planted their first vines here in 1852, and the winemaking philosophy is to produce food-friendly, elegant wines. Top Drop: Old Quarry Fonti; white port made from Muscat QP Blanc Muscadelle grapes grown on some of the oldest vines at the Homestead Vineyard, harvested late in the season, then fortified with premium quality brandy seasoned in oak barrels. It has aromas of caramelised fruit and nuances of orange marmalade - delicious!
4. Two Hands - the experience is a little different from other cellar doors; we were invited through to the patio, given the wine list and encouraged to pick and choose samples from it. Top Drop: Twelftree Grenache Rose; of course we had to try the wine with this label! The Twelftree wines are an exclusive selection of six wines handmade by Michael Twelftree on a very small scale, using a blend of new and traditional techniques to maintain the purity of the grape variety and showcase the regional characteristics. The Grenache Rose from Moppa Springs is bright, aromatic, energetic and strictly limited (with only 50 cases being produced).
5. Yalumba - A marvellous tasting in the chateau followed by a tour of the cooperage, which Him Outdoors was very keen to see. We popped in just as they were closing but one of the lads (Corey) was happy to stay around and chat and answer all his questions. The cooperage is not lucrative or even economically viable, but it is quite the marketing exercise and all part of the tourism. Top Drop: 2012 Virgilius; Eden Valley Viognier from old vines which produces a great intensity of aroma (orange blossom and ginger) with a long opulent palate, rich with apricot, stone-fruit and spice flavours, and a fresh citrus finish.

Wolf Blass tasting room

Friday Five: Wineries

Yes, of course we did other things in South Australia, but we did visit several wineries - well, you've got to, haven't you?

5 Wineries in South Australia:

1. Jacob's Creek - A big flash building with its own visitors' centre and a number of different tours to cater for all budgets and tastes. We went self-guided. My favourite was the Steingarten Reisling ($48), while Hoggy's was the Centenary Hill Shiraz ($70). Yes, I know; champagne taste on a beer budget...




2. Chateau Tanunda - a lovely chap hosted our tasting, augmented with many recommendations of places to go and things to eat! I tried the Reisling, Chardonnay and blended white; Hoggy got stuck into the Shiraz.




3. Reilly's - located in Mintaro in the Clare Valley; a lovely little village featuring a collection of old stone buildings. I tasted my way through a line-up of delicious Reislings, including a sparkling variety.




4. Pike's River - Good Reislings and an excellent cab sav, but not the best presentation. Renovations are currently underway, so it could well improve.




5. Sevenhill - Sticking to whites, I tried the Reisling, Chardonnay and a fabulous fortified Verdhelo. This was the first winery in the Clare Valley, established by Jesuit monks from Austria in 1851, and it has a very picturesque setting and an underground cellar.

Friday Five: Refractometer

Him Outdoors checking specific gravity - or something...

Earlier this week, I discovered this word in relation to wine and beer. Imagine my surprise to discover that a refractometer has multiple applications. It is used for measuring the index refraction, which describes how light (or other waves) travels through a medium, such as air, glass, or water (and sometimes appears to 'bend'). 

There is a very specific scientific formula to work this out, known as Snell's Law, or you can just use a handy device that was prepared earlier. Honestly, it's not as dull as that sounds, because look what it can do (hopefully not the same one doing all of it)!

5 Applications of a Refractometer

1. When making wine or beer, it helps to determine the amount of sugar which will be converted to alcohol.
2. Gemstones can be authenticated by how much light passes through them, as measured by this handy device.
3. A refractometer is used in drug testing of urine samples.
4. In marine aquariums, the saline content of the water can be determined by using a refractometer.
5. Optometrists use them to determine visual acuity and correct vision. 

Friday Five: Victorian Alpine weekend

Last weekend we went to the Victorian Alps area for a few days and had a great time. Here are the edited highlights.

5 Highlights of the Easter weekend:

Happy and hoppy at Bridge Road Brewers

1. Two breweries and a winery - Bridge Road Brewers at Beechworth and Bright Brewery at Bright (oddly enough) both craft some excellent brews. My favourites were the Bling IPA from the former and the Razor Witbier from the latter. Bridge Road has a particularly pleasant ambiance and is tucked down a side alleyway, opening into a sun-drenched courtyard.

   

   Amulet Winery, with sheep

   Amulet winery makes sensational sparkling tipples from prosecco and moscato to Beechworth cider. They host a Highland Games next weekend, which apparently involves lots of fun, booze and caber tossing.

   

   Squeezing through boulders at Chalwell Galleries
2. Mt Buffalo - we went for a walk/run around this brilliant lump of rock that opens out into a massive plateau. There is a part of the track which squeezes between massive boulders, called Chalwell Galleries.

   

   The Horn, Mt Buffalo National Park

   The highest peak on the plateau is called The Horn, which is a cue for much giggling and striking views. 
   
   

   

   Beechworth town centre during the Golden Horseshoes Festival
3. Beechworth - the beautiful little town (population 2,645) is reminiscent of Arrowtown with its Easter Festival, including 'biggest crowd for the smallest parade in Australia' and the deciduous trees turning fabulous colours in the crisp autumn climate.








The heritage - the area is famed for its goldrush history (gold was discovered here in 1952); its links to Robert O'Hara Burke (leader of the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition) ; and Ned Kelly connections - the notorious bushranger was imprisoned here and tried at the courthouse.





A number of culturally significant buildings line the main street and a cute little museum is full of information about all of these disparate of history.





Warning: Here Be Hippies





Shopping - Him Outdoors likes to talk to strangers and, as we pottered about the shops, cafes, museums and galleries of the district he chatted to everyone including talking to the ladies at the museum about the possibility of reinstigating a famous wheelbarrow race, and the bloke in the Trade Aid shop about the necessity and humanity of a national pensions scheme. For the record, we bought cycling gear, brewery merchandise, poncy soap, licorice root (for the beer), and lots of food and drink.

Him Outdoors with a Ned Kelly pie

Friday Five: Getting High

  

Pink bubbles at Madame Brussels

One of the many things I like about Melbourne is her buildings. Old sandstone edifices erected in the wake of the gold rush are given new life with steel and glass designs while maintaining their classic integrity. The skyline reflected in the river; the Shrine of Remembrance hailing from the end of the avenue; the bustling and strangely elegant Flinders Street Station opposite the unashamedly flamboyant Federation Square with its focus on tourism, events and hospitality; and the sprinkling of churches and town halls on the tram thoroughfares all add up to a vibrant, eclectic and appealing cityscape.

And those Melburnians aren't afraid to take their buildings to new heights. While I was there recently, I discovered a 'thing' for rooftop bars. I know they're nothing new, but around the city pubs and bars have decided to maximise space (and sunshine) by putting patrons on the roof. And because some of these buildings are relatively high compared with their neighbours, if you're lucky you will get both views and fresh air.

5 Melbourne Rooftop Bars:

1. The Rooftop - Seven floors up (the lift wasn't working when we visited) it serves fine views along with champagne, cider and cheeseburgers. From December to March it also operates as a cinema complete with stripy deckchairs. 
2. Madame Brussels - Inspired by a German brother-keeper, the theme is pink and white stripes with sparkling rosé, cocktails, punch, cheese plates, fondues and an innuendo-laden menu.
3. Palmz at the Carlton - Kitsch and cheerful with faux flamingos and other exotic beasts, and plenty of palm trees as a backdrop to your piña colada. Fortunately, the bar also stocks a range of good beers, so you don't have to drink the eponymous brew.
4. Campari House - Wood-fired pizzas and an extensive wine list make this tucked-away corner down a land and up the stairs a wonderful find. The distant lights of the city hum and shine as you relax with plastic turf beneath your feet.
5. Aer Bar, European Bier Cafe - Well-stocked with Belgian and German favourites, this bar could be pricey but we stumbled (literally) across half-price European beer night and so had Leffes, Hoegaardens and Erdingers with a cool breeze after a hot day - a 'misting system' keeps temperatures down during the daylight hours.

My newest favourite thing: Amisfield

To be fair, it’s probably not that new, because I’ve liked Amisfield for a while (frequently showing it off to our guests), but we went there for dinner last night and it sparked off a whole new appreciation.

The building is a fabulous design whose handsome schist walls, copper roof, redwood beams and clean, sloping lines reflect the early colonial cottages of the region. Nestled beside Lake Hayes, a single sheet of glass affords one of the most spectacular views across the Central Otago landscape, while the crackling wood fires keep things cosy.

We had opted for the ‘Trust the chef menu’ in which we are assured of exquisite dishes with fresh ingredients and subtle sauces so as not to overwhelm the flavour of the magnificent produce.

The staff were friendly, helpful, and knowledgeable: they matched wines for us; joked about our accents (the English chap was delighted to be able to offer us aubergines rather than eggplants); and pleasantly took the photo of the large group at the table next to us.

We began the night with bubbles, as you do. The Arcadia brut is one of the best sparkling wines I have ever drunk and one of my favourite ways to celebrate a special occasion. Our dishes arrived at our table on pewter-looking plates that made us feel as though we were at a medieval banquet.

To begin, we had whitebait lightly dusted in flour and then gently fried, served with rocket leaves and sourdough bread. This was followed by a plate of Parma ham, shavings of parmesan, and leaves of fragrant basil. The salmon with wilted greens, tomatoes and pine nuts continued the fishy theme and went superbly with a flinty Dry Riesling. The blend of citrus and spice cut cleanly through the fish oils and enhanced the experience perfectly.

We also had a plate of roasted aubergines, chickpeas, tomato, tahini and mint to share which was a simply delicious explosion of flavours. The pinot gris was sublime matched with the mini pot-roast chicken served with feta and tapenade. Side dishes of mixed leaves and the creamiest mashed potato you have ever tasted complemented the complex but subtle ‘each peach pear plum’ notes detected in the wine.

The portions were enough that we were satisfied but not satiated and, as neither of us are really pudding people, we finished off with a selection of the three desert wines. My favourite was the Lake Hayes Noble which was rich and sweet with a lemony zing that had me licking my lips all the way home.

I really enjoy this style of eating – it’s like tapas but the chef chooses whatever is freshest and best. There is no danger that you won’t like anything (you are asked about any dislikes or allergies at the beginning) so you can sit back, relax and know that you will be served the most sumptuous of treats.

Chiantishire

The area dismissively known as Chiantishire really is beautiful, with rolling hills covered in olive trees and vines – it could catch on! I can see why people with money would want to renovate tumbledown villas and turn them into holiday homes with ensuite vineyard. I’m just jealous.

The Lonely Planet sniffs, “The hype has been just a trifle overdone. There’s plenty of more spectacular country to be seen in other areas of Tuscany. Let’s not put you off, but the Tuscan countryside by no means begins and ends in Il Chianti.”

You haven’t put me off, and I think it’s just gorgeous. I love the Romanesque churches (known as pieve) dotted about the hills and the little villages – three of which comprise the ‘League of Chianti’.

We call in first to Gaiole, but it is siesta-time. Nearly everything is shut and Him Outdoors is upset by that (“I feel I’m not supposed to be here”).

We take a back road which, by happy accident, leads to San Donato in Perano – a sort of winery on top of a hill where we are able to get a glass of wine, which cheers him up no end.

At Vertine, a castle from the 10th century is enclosed in an oval walled perimeter. We enter through the elegant gate and walk around the extremely sleepy village – the only people in evidence are a reading group sitting in a circle outside the church.

We walk around the wee town of Radda – the founder of the league. It is a beautiful place and supposedly has discount shops – factory outlets – but when I look at the shoes they don’t seem that cheap to me – not that they have any in my monstrous-not-tiny-Italian size. There are a lot of chavs done good, shopping around with their Chanel handbags, ostentatious bling and sugar daddies.

Down a side street we find a cellar with tastings on offer – an enoteca. A very kindly lady initiates me into the fantastic flavours of Chianti Classico – a blend of red and white grapes which is sold under the Gallo Nero (black cockerel/rooster) symbol. It is very fine indeed and of course we buy a couple of bottles before heading to Castellina, the third of the league.

This is another beautiful castle town, which was a frontier town between warring Siena and Florence. You are met at the entrance by huge cylindrical silos. They may look industrial, but they are, in fact, full of Chianti Classico, which has to be a good thing. Him Outdoors says this is his favourite town of the day and he even goes so far as to look at house prices.

We stock up on provisions in Stradda to go with our vino. We get bread, cheese, ham, olives and mayonnaise from the supermacto and some tomatoes from a chap in a fruit and veg shop who refuses to accept any coins for our meagre purchase of 0.20 euros.

Returning to our hotel, we make ourselves a little feast and watch the television which features films dubbed into Italian and some sports results. Florentina played in the UEFA Cup a couple of days ago and the referee was Mike Riley, which explains why Him Outdoors spotted him strolling across the Ponte Vecchio – as you do.

Toast Martinborough

We begin our day by heading to the yacht club for bubbles and a bagel. We are meant to meet a friend but he has cunningly disguised himself in a wig and hideous outfit. We stand next to him at the bar without recognizing him. Him Outdoors has trouble with technology – apparently stumpy Celt fingers are no friend of cell-phones and it doesn’t help when he’s trying to ring the wrong number in the first place.

Our friend announces, “I’ve got some spare moustaches in my pocket for later.” As he has organized the transport, it would seem churlish to question the relevance of this statement.

A group of us pile onto a chartered bus which winds over the hill to Martinborough. It is a little disturbing that when we play with the aircon, we manage to light up the ‘Bus Stopping’ sign. Fortunately it doesn’t until we reach our destination and we alight in the square, pick up a special glass and a programme, swap our money for wine tokens and we’re off!

It’s windy but sunny so we all liberally apply the sun cream – a group of pasty poms and Irish folk let loose with wine and sunshine; it could end in tears. The ladies all look lovely in their floaty summer frocks, floppy hats and flip-flops – the men have dressed up Kiwi-posh, which appears to mean a clean t-shirt.

Our first stop is Craggy Range which seems pricy but the Te Muna Road reisling is crisp and clear and the venison and rocket pizza is delicious. I bump into a friend – not literally – I have only just started drinking. She, however, is on winery number six and has come here for lunch. It seems a lot of people have.

Buses run between the vineyards but you can walk if you want the exercise – nowhere is very far apart. We head to Palliser Estate where I have some bubbles – they are light and cheerful, and the day is looking good. One of our friends has ‘found’ some fairy wings which look particularly fetching although I doubt they were designed to be worn with a Hacienda t-shirt by a thirty-something bloke from Manchester.

Him Outdoors ignores the old adage – red then white; you’ll feel like shite – and he is tucking into the pinot noir already. It is fresh and clean – you can taste the skins, stalks, earth and fruit which leaps out of the glass with a pinot punch.

All of the vineyards have bands playing on makeshift stages. The Beat Girls are due to perform here, but although they’re perfect wine and food accompaniment, no one seems to know when they are coming on (the lack of times printed in the programme would be my one criticism of the event) and we decide not to hang around and wait – so many wineries; so little time.

At Martinborough Vineyard and Burnt Spar people are starting to relax; stretching out among the vines, enjoying the wine, food, music and convivial atmosphere. One wine taster confidently asserts, “I can honestly tell you with all my experience as a connoisseur, that wine is definitely white.” Another helpful comment is “It’s a good drop; that will get you pissed.” I'm quite impressed by the insightful, "Too many lemons; not enough melons" until I realise he's not talking about the wine. I give up asking people to give me their tasting notes.

Margrain has a separate ‘bubbles bar’. Of course, I have to try the 'La Michelle' inaugural methode traditionalle bubbles and they taste like crushed digestive biscuits and are almost golden in colour. I also have some chenin blanc which the programme claims is very limited. It's also very tasty.

Ata Rangi has a delectable Craighall chardonnay which is my favourite of the day. Oak; butter; cinnamon; walnuts; peaches – all the things I like in a hearty chardonnay.

This is a good place to sit and take stock; we meet up with lots of friends and more money is exchanged. People wander about with bottles in picnic baskets – topping up drinks so you don’t even have to stand up or queue to get anther glass. This looks as though it could get dangerous.

The boys sit around smoking cigars and there is much hilarity as everyone has a go trying on the wig. The food here is Ruth Pretty Catering and includes gourmet steak and kidney pies which look extremely tasty and, although pies may not be particularly exotic, they go down a treat. Apparently the white chocolate and blackcurrant crème brulee is pretty good too.

We spot the staff having a lunch break round the back when we stray off the beaten track. This isn’t so easy to do, as the areas where you are meant to go are very clearly directed.

We are herded towards Alana Estate where a band belts out covers. Some people dance in a desultory fashion at the end of the day, while others nod off even more lazily in the afternoon sun.

The festival finishes at around six, which is probably just as well, as I think we’ve all had plenty by then (both wine and sun). Somehow we manage to have some festival money left, which is not exchangeable. Bottles are still for sale at the square, so we use up our remaining wine tokens. We roll back to our waiting coach which takes us back over the hill – as it were.

Grape picking

A couple of weeks ago I went to harvest grapes for a friend of a friend on their vineyard in Te Horo. For some reason this is something I have always wanted to do.

I love vineyards. William Morris once wrote “Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.” I think this is a lesson to live by. It certainly applies to vineyards.

The spacing of the vines forms perfectly symmetrical rows of brilliant green or flaming red depending on the season. The tendrils curl in crazy ways around the supporting wires to hang on and take over. The roses often planed at the end of the vines bloom tenderly but are readily sacrificed to a purpose.

As for the grapes themselves; they are bold goblets of rich flavour and are decorated in sumptuous skins. When pressed, they release wildly hedonistic juices to be converted into decadent delights. Beautiful and functional; they combine artistry with industry – what more could you want?

So I loved being there picking the grapes, even when it started raining, my back was aching and my fingers sticky. I loved the ride on the tractor (my first ever) and the lunch provided, as we sat around an outdoor table tucking into bread and cheese with banana cake and wicked fudge.

And I loved being paid in wine! Look out for Avatar (available at Macs Brewery Bar and St John’s Bar in Wellington) – it’s great, and when the 2008 pinot noir vintage comes out, I had a hand in it. It was tiring work but it felt good to be getting to the grass roots of a thing I love from all angles.