Friday Five: Barossa Wineries

Our trip to Adelaide was mainly for the cycling, but obviously, one can't pass through the Barossa region without stopping at a winery or two. Or a dozen. So we did, and here are some of them.

Bethany Wines cellar door

5 Wineries We Visited on Our Barossa Trip:

1. Peter Lehmann - set among fabulous gardens and cultivated lawns, this was a wonderful place to start (and handily just round the corner from our accommodation). In 1979 there was a grape glut and the growers couldn't sell their grapes, so Peter Lehmann set up saying, 'Give me your grapes, and I'll make your wine'. Of course the growers had to trust him and wait for at least three years before they saw a return - it seems to have been successful! We drank many different shirazes, ranging in price from $20 to $100. Top Drop: 2010 Stonewell Shiraz; a classic example of the rich concentrated old vine style, packed with flavours of dark fruits and chocolate, with a touch of aniseed.
2. Wolf Blass - Him Outdoors had a particular inclination to see this winery. It was one of the first in the region, and although it's big and somewhat corporate, it didn't disappoint. We were served by Jenny who did an excellent job, explaining all the different labels to us (red; yellow; silver; gold; white; grey; brown; sapphire; black; platinum) and talking us through the range. Founder Wolfgang Blass believes that the winemakers of the Barossa should really just stick to shiraz, and, on the evidence of this tasting, they could do worse than heed his advice. Top Drop: 2012 Brown Label Classic Shiraz; an intriguing blend of the same grape from three different regions - Barossa; McLaren Vale; Langhorn Creek - produces a soft and approachable wine that is still robust and richly flavoured. The brown label was not a successful marketing colour, but was reinstated for the year of Wolfgang's 80th birthday with much greater success.
3. Bethany Wines - Bethany itself is a beautiful little spot steeped in German history; the village was settled in 1842 by 28 families who emigrated from Prussia. The Schrapel family planted their first vines here in 1852, and the winemaking philosophy is to produce food-friendly, elegant wines. Top Drop: Old Quarry Fonti; white port made from Muscat QP Blanc Muscadelle grapes grown on some of the oldest vines at the Homestead Vineyard, harvested late in the season, then fortified with premium quality brandy seasoned in oak barrels. It has aromas of caramelised fruit and nuances of orange marmalade - delicious!
4. Two Hands - the experience is a little different from other cellar doors; we were invited through to the patio, given the wine list and encouraged to pick and choose samples from it. Top Drop: Twelftree Grenache Rose; of course we had to try the wine with this label! The Twelftree wines are an exclusive selection of six wines handmade by Michael Twelftree on a very small scale, using a blend of new and traditional techniques to maintain the purity of the grape variety and showcase the regional characteristics. The Grenache Rose from Moppa Springs is bright, aromatic, energetic and strictly limited (with only 50 cases being produced).
5. Yalumba - A marvellous tasting in the chateau followed by a tour of the cooperage, which Him Outdoors was very keen to see. We popped in just as they were closing but one of the lads (Corey) was happy to stay around and chat and answer all his questions. The cooperage is not lucrative or even economically viable, but it is quite the marketing exercise and all part of the tourism. Top Drop: 2012 Virgilius; Eden Valley Viognier from old vines which produces a great intensity of aroma (orange blossom and ginger) with a long opulent palate, rich with apricot, stone-fruit and spice flavours, and a fresh citrus finish.

Wolf Blass tasting room

Friday Five: Wineries

Yes, of course we did other things in South Australia, but we did visit several wineries - well, you've got to, haven't you?

5 Wineries in South Australia:

1. Jacob's Creek - A big flash building with its own visitors' centre and a number of different tours to cater for all budgets and tastes. We went self-guided. My favourite was the Steingarten Reisling ($48), while Hoggy's was the Centenary Hill Shiraz ($70). Yes, I know; champagne taste on a beer budget...




2. Chateau Tanunda - a lovely chap hosted our tasting, augmented with many recommendations of places to go and things to eat! I tried the Reisling, Chardonnay and blended white; Hoggy got stuck into the Shiraz.




3. Reilly's - located in Mintaro in the Clare Valley; a lovely little village featuring a collection of old stone buildings. I tasted my way through a line-up of delicious Reislings, including a sparkling variety.




4. Pike's River - Good Reislings and an excellent cab sav, but not the best presentation. Renovations are currently underway, so it could well improve.




5. Sevenhill - Sticking to whites, I tried the Reisling, Chardonnay and a fabulous fortified Verdhelo. This was the first winery in the Clare Valley, established by Jesuit monks from Austria in 1851, and it has a very picturesque setting and an underground cellar.

Friday Five: Adelaide

Local Adeladian resident

We have recently returned from a week in Adelaide. Slowly we are exploring the Australian cities and towns. This week I read that Sydney and Melbourne are both in the top five most expensive cities in the world according to the cost of living index, so although they are still worth a visit, they are not on my viable places to live list. Adelaide, however, has much to recommend it.

5 Things I Like about Adelaide:

1. The hills: farmers markets; vineyards; orchards; cute little towns; winding roads; wildlife and trees - cooler than the town and packed with personality
2. The sea: from timeballs, lighthouses and micro-breweries in former wharf buildings to hippy artwork and squeaky white sandy beaches; it's got all facets of the ocean covered
3. The cycling: The Tour Down Under was made for Adelaide but even when it's not on, the roads are heaven for pedalling perfection
4. The festivals: Adelaide used to be known as the city of churches; now it's called the festival city - theatre; film; music; sport; food; wine - everything has a festival and they're pretty much all fabulous
5. The wineries: Barossa; Eden Valley; McLaren Vale; Adelaide Hills; Clare Valley; Kangaroo Island and many many more, all there just waiting to be drunk!

My newest favourite thing: Amisfield

To be fair, it’s probably not that new, because I’ve liked Amisfield for a while (frequently showing it off to our guests), but we went there for dinner last night and it sparked off a whole new appreciation.

The building is a fabulous design whose handsome schist walls, copper roof, redwood beams and clean, sloping lines reflect the early colonial cottages of the region. Nestled beside Lake Hayes, a single sheet of glass affords one of the most spectacular views across the Central Otago landscape, while the crackling wood fires keep things cosy.

We had opted for the ‘Trust the chef menu’ in which we are assured of exquisite dishes with fresh ingredients and subtle sauces so as not to overwhelm the flavour of the magnificent produce.

The staff were friendly, helpful, and knowledgeable: they matched wines for us; joked about our accents (the English chap was delighted to be able to offer us aubergines rather than eggplants); and pleasantly took the photo of the large group at the table next to us.

We began the night with bubbles, as you do. The Arcadia brut is one of the best sparkling wines I have ever drunk and one of my favourite ways to celebrate a special occasion. Our dishes arrived at our table on pewter-looking plates that made us feel as though we were at a medieval banquet.

To begin, we had whitebait lightly dusted in flour and then gently fried, served with rocket leaves and sourdough bread. This was followed by a plate of Parma ham, shavings of parmesan, and leaves of fragrant basil. The salmon with wilted greens, tomatoes and pine nuts continued the fishy theme and went superbly with a flinty Dry Riesling. The blend of citrus and spice cut cleanly through the fish oils and enhanced the experience perfectly.

We also had a plate of roasted aubergines, chickpeas, tomato, tahini and mint to share which was a simply delicious explosion of flavours. The pinot gris was sublime matched with the mini pot-roast chicken served with feta and tapenade. Side dishes of mixed leaves and the creamiest mashed potato you have ever tasted complemented the complex but subtle ‘each peach pear plum’ notes detected in the wine.

The portions were enough that we were satisfied but not satiated and, as neither of us are really pudding people, we finished off with a selection of the three desert wines. My favourite was the Lake Hayes Noble which was rich and sweet with a lemony zing that had me licking my lips all the way home.

I really enjoy this style of eating – it’s like tapas but the chef chooses whatever is freshest and best. There is no danger that you won’t like anything (you are asked about any dislikes or allergies at the beginning) so you can sit back, relax and know that you will be served the most sumptuous of treats.

Chiantishire

The area dismissively known as Chiantishire really is beautiful, with rolling hills covered in olive trees and vines – it could catch on! I can see why people with money would want to renovate tumbledown villas and turn them into holiday homes with ensuite vineyard. I’m just jealous.

The Lonely Planet sniffs, “The hype has been just a trifle overdone. There’s plenty of more spectacular country to be seen in other areas of Tuscany. Let’s not put you off, but the Tuscan countryside by no means begins and ends in Il Chianti.”

You haven’t put me off, and I think it’s just gorgeous. I love the Romanesque churches (known as pieve) dotted about the hills and the little villages – three of which comprise the ‘League of Chianti’.

We call in first to Gaiole, but it is siesta-time. Nearly everything is shut and Him Outdoors is upset by that (“I feel I’m not supposed to be here”).

We take a back road which, by happy accident, leads to San Donato in Perano – a sort of winery on top of a hill where we are able to get a glass of wine, which cheers him up no end.

At Vertine, a castle from the 10th century is enclosed in an oval walled perimeter. We enter through the elegant gate and walk around the extremely sleepy village – the only people in evidence are a reading group sitting in a circle outside the church.

We walk around the wee town of Radda – the founder of the league. It is a beautiful place and supposedly has discount shops – factory outlets – but when I look at the shoes they don’t seem that cheap to me – not that they have any in my monstrous-not-tiny-Italian size. There are a lot of chavs done good, shopping around with their Chanel handbags, ostentatious bling and sugar daddies.

Down a side street we find a cellar with tastings on offer – an enoteca. A very kindly lady initiates me into the fantastic flavours of Chianti Classico – a blend of red and white grapes which is sold under the Gallo Nero (black cockerel/rooster) symbol. It is very fine indeed and of course we buy a couple of bottles before heading to Castellina, the third of the league.

This is another beautiful castle town, which was a frontier town between warring Siena and Florence. You are met at the entrance by huge cylindrical silos. They may look industrial, but they are, in fact, full of Chianti Classico, which has to be a good thing. Him Outdoors says this is his favourite town of the day and he even goes so far as to look at house prices.

We stock up on provisions in Stradda to go with our vino. We get bread, cheese, ham, olives and mayonnaise from the supermacto and some tomatoes from a chap in a fruit and veg shop who refuses to accept any coins for our meagre purchase of 0.20 euros.

Returning to our hotel, we make ourselves a little feast and watch the television which features films dubbed into Italian and some sports results. Florentina played in the UEFA Cup a couple of days ago and the referee was Mike Riley, which explains why Him Outdoors spotted him strolling across the Ponte Vecchio – as you do.